As I stood at the base of the waterfall, with nobody else around, I truly felt like I’d found a hidden gem. One of the absolute highlights of my recent visit to Siem Reap in Cambodia was the gorgeous rainforest hike around Kbal Spean.
Kbal Spean is an archaeological and natural site located in the Phnom Kulen area, about 50km north of Siem Reap. The highlight is a 3.5 km forest hike that leads to a riverbed filled with ancient Angkor-era carvings of lingas, deities, and sacred motifs. It is known collectively as the “River of a Thousand Lingas.”
The site combines nature, light adventure, and Angkor history and makes for a perfect half day trip to break up all of the temples.
Want to find out more about Siem Reap? Read my guide HERE (post coming soon).
Want to find out more about Angkor Archaeological Park? Read my guide HERE.
Getting to Kbal Spean
- Distance: ~1 hour drive from Siem Reap city.
- Transport options:
- Private car or van (most comfortable).
- Tuk-tuk (possible but slower; road conditions can be bumpy).
- Guided tour (common and includes explanations of carvings).
- The walk can be paired with a visit to Banteay Srei temple nearby to make a full day trip.
Top Tip: I booked a 3 day Angkor tour with Cambodia Golden Tours, which included this hike. Vuthaa was brilliant – he isn’t a formal guide, but he gave us a great balance of information and ease; he guided us on this walking route but also gave us plenty of space to drop back or go ahead and explore.
Important Hike Information
- Distance: 1.5 km each way (3 km round trip).
- Difficulty: Moderate—manageable for most people with average fitness.
- Trail Type: Up and down, requiring an element of scrambling. No technical climbing is required.
- Tree roots
- Uneven stones and steps
- Occasional steep patches
- Time: 1.5–2.5 hours total for the hike + time spent at the top, depending on pace.
- Best Time of Day: Morning (7.30am-10am, for cooler temperatures and better light). Avoid the mid-day heat.
- Best Time of Year: November, so that the river & waterfall are full after the wet season (May – October).
- Trail Markings: Whilst we did follow a guide, the path is fairly clear with distance markers included so you can’t go too wrong if you visit independently.
Important Note: Kbal Spean is part of the Angkor Archaeological Park, so the standard Angkor Pass is required for entry. You can buy a 1, 3 or 7 day pass – find out more in my guide to Angkor Park HERE.
What to See on the Kbal Spean Hike
Jungle Setting
This hike felt like I was about to see Indiana Jones come shooting down the river on some makeshift raft, or find Lara Croft flying through the treetops. It was absolutely beautiful, and as with the rest of Angkor – like a movie set from start to finish.
As you walk along the paths, there are some beautiful viewpoints out over the forest, as well as lots of interesting tree roots. I kept having to stop to take photos! Oh and even better – we had it all to ourselves!
Riverbed Carvings
The carvings date back to the 11th Century (so about the same time as William the Conqueror was invading England). The carvings represent thousands of lingas (linga is a word for phallic shapes, often symbolising fertility). There are also many carved bas-reliefs of Hindu deities (Shiva, Vishnu, Brahma), and ancient riverbed channels used for ritual purification.
Waterfall
At the top of the trail is a small but beautiful waterfall downstream. We had it completely to ourselves, and it was so special to enjoy such a peaceful forest atmosphere. We took some photos, paused to enjoy it all with a cold bottle of water, and just sat enjoying the sound of water, before looping back to the start of the walk. It felt like a total hidden gem, and was an absolute joy to explore.
Kbal Spean Visitor Tips
- Be sure to bring with you:
- Comfortable walking shoes with grip
- Water (my husband nearly perspired to his death!)
- Hat & sunscreen
- Mosquito repellent
- Camera
- Cash (for parking if visiting independently, small purchases near entrance).
- Be extra careful as there are many slippery rocks along the trail, so take your time.
- Stay on the marked path – it is well signposted.
- Under no circumstances climb on the carvings!
And that’s a wrap on our Kbal Spean hike, which was definitely one of our highlights whilst staying in Siem Reap. We really enjoyed the peaceful, lush green forest as a contrast against the many (amazing) temples. For anyone visiting Angkor, I highly recommend this hike. What do you think?
Stay safe and happy travelling!
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