The second walk of our long weekend in Devon was a Devon favourite – Wistman’s Wood and Powder Mills Circular Walk. It is known as one of the most atmospheric hikes in Devon. Combining Dartmoor’s most famous ancient woodland with riverside paths, open moorland, and historic ruins, this circular route offers a truly unique walking experience.
If you’re searching for a walk that blends legend, landscape, and wild beauty, then you’re in the right place…. Though I should say up front we did not complete the walk we set out to do – for a myriad of reasons, mainly weather related – though also due to two incompetent navigators (I was in much need of someone who knew what they were doing)! So you can also learn from my mistakes!
Where Is Wistman’s Wood?
Wistman’s Wood is located on Dartmoor National Park, near the village of Two Bridges in Devon. Sitting high above the West Dart and Walkham valleys, it is one of Britain’s highest-altitude oak woods and is famous for its twisted trees, moss-covered boulders, and eerie atmosphere. It’s truly unique and beautiful.
The Powder Mills ruins lie lower down near the River Walkham and add a fascinating historical element to the walk. We were glad we added this in to our route, and would recommend doing so – my guide below includes the steps to do this.
If you want to read more about my time in Devon, you can find my review of Nymetwood Treehouses HERE (coming soon), and Teign Gorge Circular walk HERE.
Wistman’s Wood and Powder Mills Walk Overview
- Distance: Approximately 3-5km based on the red route highlighted on the map below. 8km for us, based on the yellow route highlighted on the map below.
- Time: 2-3 hours, depending on route.
- Difficulty: Moderate, or highly horrendous in our case!
- Terrain: Moorland tracks, rocky paths and boggy sections.
- Dog-friendly: Yes, but keep dogs under close control.
- Best for: Confident walkers, photographers, Dartmoor explorers.
This is a circular hike, making it easy to plan without needing transport at both ends.
Parking for the Walk
The most common starting point is near Two Bridges (PL20 6SW). On the map below, this is where the three blue dots/bubbles are at the bottom on the red highlighted route.
This was the first issue for us; there had been heavy flooding across Dartmoor and so many roads were closed. We finally, after a nearly 2hr drive to do 10 miles (!), arrived at Two Bridges – to find it closed.
We therefore had to find alternative parking, and the closest we could find was roadside parking on the B3212. This meant significantly extending the walk, as we started at the “P” at the beginning of the yellow line, off to the right on the map below. The full yellow circular represents what we actually walked (!)
If you want to do this walk, I really recommend arriving early as car parking is limited in the area – and always park considerately to avoid blocking gateways or narrow lanes.
The Route: Step-by-Step Guide
I’m going to write up the yellow highlighted circular route, as if starting at Two Bridges (because this is where the majority of people would start), walking up to Wistman’s Wood, down through Powdermills and then across via Cherrybrook and Crockern Tor back to the start. This would be a lovely way to do the longer walk.
1. Two Bridges to Wistman’s Wood
From Two Bridges, go through the gate signed Wistman’s Wood and follow the broad track (supposedly sandy, but in our case decidedly wet). After about half a mile, the path passes through a wall with Crockern Tor on the right (ignore this for now), and continue walking straight. Keep parallel to the valley of the West Dart on the left, as the moorland opens up toward Wistman’s Wood. This initial ascent is steady rather than steep, with wide views across Dartmoor’s rugged landscape.
As you approach the wood, the scenery shifts dramatically from open moor to an almost otherworldly tangle of boulders and gnarled oak trees. I’ve never seen anything like these trees, and they are absolutely beautiful!
2. Exploring Wistman’s Wood
Wistman’s Wood is the highlight of the walk. The ground here is very uneven, with slippery rocks and exposed tree roots. In days gone by, you used to be able to go in to the wood, but to protect it, the path now guides you around the edge of the wood rather than through it.
It’s really important to stick to established paths and avoid climbing on trees or boulders. I did find myself standing there soaking up the atmosphere – we had it entirely to ourselves and it felt other worldly. Follow the path around the top edge of the woods, enjoying the views as you go.
3. Wistman’s Wood to Longaford Tor
Around 500m from the end of the wood, strike up the slope on the right, finding a rough path that leads to the saddle between the two outcrops of Longaford Tor. It’s meant to be an easy climb, but we turned right too early and ended up climbing over rocks, against driving rain and wind so at this point – we were not loving life.
4. Longaford Tor Descent to the Powder Mills
From Longaford Tor head downhill over the opposite side towards a brick wall, in which you can find gaps to enter the open grassland with the chimneys of Powder Mills on the horizon. Aim for the northern most solo chimney as you walk across the grassland.
It is here we ran in to real trouble – the grassland was complete bog after the flooding. We effectively had to wade the entire way, and at some points had water up to our shins. Our feet were soaking, my shoe came off in the mud, and it started raining heavily. This is the point we’d really had enough of the walk and of course started snapping at each other and our awful navigation skills!
5. Powder Mills to Crockern Tor and back to Two Bridges
Weave through the Powder Mills until you come out at the main road (the B3212). Turn right and walk along the main road towards Cherry Brook and 1km or so along, find a ladder stile on your right hand side to pick up an old track.
Follow it gently uphill, soon bearing left in tandem with the wall on the left. Pass through a gate in the wall ahead (or a river in our case!), and bear half-left; Crockern Tor soon comes in to view. Climb up it to enjoy the views from the famous ancient meeting place of the Stannary Parliament (which dealt with the laws relating to tin-mining).
From Crockern Tor, descend with the Tor on your left to the wall. Walk along it until you find an entrance through it back to the path from which you joined the walk from Two Bridges. Walk back along it to the car park and your start point.
In our case, we arrived at the car absolutely battered and soaked to the bones with wet feet. It wasn’t ideal but it’s a testament to the walk that we still actually enjoyed it.
It also happened to be my actual birthday so I wasn’t going to be anything other than in a good mood.
Difficulty and Best Time to Visit Wistman’s Wood
The walk is best described as moderate, but take my word for it – it can feel more challenging in poor weather. Expect rocky, uneven ground around the wood, VERY boggy moorland sections after rainfall and navigation challenges in mist. Mist and low cloud can descend quickly on Dartmoor, adding drama but also reducing visibility.
Based on my experience, the best time to do the walk is probably spring or summer.
- Spring: Fresh growth and flowing rivers
- Summer: Best underfoot conditions, but busiest
- Autumn: Moody light, fewer visitors, stunning atmosphere
- Winter: Beautiful but hazardous as we found out; ice, fog, and wind common
Good footwear and basic navigation skills are essential, especially outside of summer. I am not a gifted navigator, and I was in desperate need and want of one here!!
What to Bring
- Waterproof walking boots with good grip
- Weatherproof clothing (conditions change fast)
- Map or GPS device because navigation is challenging on this route
- Water and snacks
- Camera or phone for photography
Without question, Wistman’s Wood and Powder Mills Circular Walk is one of the most memorable hikes I’ve done….for many reasons! It combines wild moorland, ancient woodland, and historic ruins into a compact but varied route that feels unlike anywhere else in the UK.
We didn’t do it justice given the terrible weather and our equally terrible navigation skills. That said, if you want a Dartmoor walk that’s atmospheric and slightly wild, this one should be high on your list.
What do you think? Let me know in the comments! And stay safe and happy travelling!
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